My Diary
St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay
The time had arrived for me to leave the comfort of my home to start my travels to St Bees
in Cumbria. My wife duly drove me to Taunton in Somerset in order that I could catch the
8.57 train to Lancaster.
The journey to St Bees was very restful, and pleasant, it's surprising the views you
get from a railway carriage. The train started to fill at Birmingham with a cosmopolitan
collection of people. When the train arrived at Lancaster I had to change on to a one
carriage train to take me to St Bees, what wonderful views.
On arrival at St Bees I found my guesthouse with very little effort, I was made very
welcome, given a cup of tea and some biscuits, then shown to my room which was small but
adequate. After that I walked into town and down to the beach, this was to see where the
walk started from. On the way there I noticed a park bench with the following inscription
on it " Donated by the Old Boys of Mill Hill School " for the kindness
shown by the residents of St Bees during WW11. I wonder if anyone from the Mill Hill area
of London remembers it!. It was then back to the Manor House Hotel for a
meal of Beef Pie with chips and veggies, very nice it was too. There were lots of walkers
in the Hotel also, all talking about the impending walk. Finally it was back to the
Guesthouse for a good nights rest.
24 May 1998, St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge, distance
14.25 miles
Awoke early to find the sun shining through the window, good I thought a nice day to start
with. Showered then down to breakfast which just happened to be a full English. Had a chat
with some other walkers about the route because they had done it the previous year, they
said was not so daunting as some would make it out to be.
Got all of my kit to-gether and left the Guesthouse to make my way down to the beach,
on the way I met a fellow walker by the name of Jon Dallie, and we decided to walk
to-gether. We carried out the ritual of getting the boots wet also picking a pebble to
carry to Robin Hood's Bay on the East Coast.
Nothing had prepared me for the climb out of St Bees, it was tough, but with a few
stops I made it. The remainder of the walk to Cleator was over pasture land and good
footpaths, with some road walking, then we had to start the ascent of Dent Fell, which was
a steady climb to start with but got steeper as it went on, the top is marked with a large
cairn of stones. The views from the top were great.
Now for the descent the other side, this was OK but once we were through the woods we had
to negotiate a grassy path down a very steep slope to reach the beck at the bottom. This
done we made our way to Nannycatch Gate, then below Flatfell Screes until at
last we made the road to Ennerdale. This was a steep walk down, and by the time I
had reached the bottom I was tired. The Guesthouse was easy to find as it was the first
one we came to. I was met at the door by Pam, taken into the lounge, given a cup of tea
and biscuits, asked what I would like for breakfast, then shown to my room, again small
but enough for my needs.
After a shower I made for the Shepherds Hut Inn where Jon
was staying, we then had supper and a chat to other walkers, three of whom were
to be walking companions at a later stage.
25 May 1998, Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite,
distance 14.25 miles
Woke early to find that the weather had got a little worse, but at this moment
still not raining. I met Jon at the bridge and we walked to-gether alongside
Ennerdale Water, very pleasant. On reaching Anglers Crag we had to take to climbing
a little, but it wasn't too bad. Continued to the end of Ennerdale Water and
picked up the forest road this was to lead us to Blacksail Youth Hostel.
Blacksail Youth Hostel
When we arrived there the place was humming with lots of other walkers all having
their lunch, seemed like a suitable place so we ate as well.
Lunch over it was onwards and upwards, by this I mean the ascent of Long Beck. This was
some climb, I found it difficult but managed it with a few stops along the way. At the top
we made for Drum House this was defined by a line of cairns, we then picked up the Old
Tramway which was to lead us down to Honister Pass, this was also a very steep descent,
very taxing on the legs. It was then a steady walk on to the Youth Hostel at Rosthwaite.
By now my legs were really aching especially at the top of the thigh. Someone said it
would get better I do hope so.
Checked in, found my room, had a shower and made tracks for the Dining Room as it was
near to supper time. This was the first time I had ever been into a Youth Hostel, I was
surprised how efficiently it was run. For supper I had Soup, Jacket Potato filled with
Garlic Mushrooms, salad and coleslaw, followed by Bakewell Tart and custard, all well
prepared and tasty. After supper I went to the common room to chat to a few people. It was
now time to retire to my room and prepare my kit for the next day.
26 May 1998, Rosthwaite to Patterdale, distance 17.75
miles
After a hearty breakfast Jon and I made tracks for Patterdale, on the way we joined up
with other walkers. It was a long hard walk to Lining Crag ( about 2000ft above sea level
).
It was now time to start making the descent to-wards Far Easedale Head, via Greenup
Edge, which was a footpath crossing the one we were using. It was at Far Easedale Edge
that Jon decided that he was going to take a different route to Grasmere, mainly because
he was staying there that night but I was going on to Patterdale ( quite a way to go ).
At the outskirts of Grassmere I met the three others walkers I have previously
mentioned, they were John ( Retired Fireman, John works for a company making boxes for
industry and Nigel an electrician ), we ate our lunch to-gether. That over we made tracks
for Patterdale.
We made for Great Tongue, and took the Little Tongue route, which proved to be very
hard going it was a long hard slog. The next target was Grisdale Hause Gap, this we made
easily although it was a scramble in places, but once there the panoramic views were out
of this world.
Now starts the long descent following Grisdale Beck into Patterdale, I made this on my
own as the other three wanted to take in a higher route, I was not up to it. Finally made
it the Youth Hostel. Tired but pleased with the days walking.
Patterdale Youth Hostel was different from the first one in as
much that it gave table service and a Dish of the Day. The dining room and common
room were on the first floor, so that views could be enjoyed
27 May 1998, Patterdale to Shap, distance
16 miles
Had a good breakfast and made my way to the Post Office in order to purchase
a Thumb Stick, this I thought would aid my ascent and descents as it would take
the strain off the legs a little. This done I started walking up to-wards Boredale
Hause, on the way there is a very old cast iron bench inscribed 1897, took a
little rest to admire the views.
The seat at Boredale Hause
On the way up I was caught up by John, John and Nigel, we then stayed to-gether,
the walk was interesting but also very tiring, but the views made for all of
that.
We went round Angletarn Pikes, then we had a good view of Angle
Tarn itself, on then to pass below Satura Crag and then to pass round the Knott.
It was then a drop down to the Straights of Riggindale, we missed the turn by
Twopenny Crag but found it the second time around. After a long hard pull we
finally made it to the top of Kidsty Pike ( approx. 3000ft above sea level )
it was very misty and the clouds were low, but it did manage to clear long enough
for us to take photos.
On top of Kidsty Pike
It was then down and along to Kidsty Howes, another hard climb, then by a fairly
steep descent we made it Haweswater Reservoir, lunch time, and a rest. Off we
go again this time alongside the reservoir, it was at this point the three chaps
made haste for Shap, I think I was too slow for them, never mind the day was
pleasant.
I then made my way to Burbanks and on to Park Bridge then to Rosgill Bridge.
Found the direction at Rosgill Bridge but somehow managed to miss a stile and went out
of my way, never mind it was a good day. Finally made it to Shap and my digs, tea and
cakes were waiting for me. It was then shower time and off to the Crown Inn to meet the
three chaps.
Had supper of Braised Steak, chips and veggies followed by cheese and biscuits.Back
then for a good nights rest ready for the next day.
Shap Abbey
28 May 1998, Shap to Kirkby Stephen, distance
19.25 miles
What a good start to the day, the sun was shining and there was hardly any wind,
feel good. As I left my digs I met Graeme, a fellow walker I had met previously,
we then walked to-gether out of Shap up to and over the M6 Motorway via a footbridge
and made good progress across moorland to Oddendale, where we turned South then
East to Wicker Street, this is a collection of large rock formations, at this
point Graeme went ahead of me ( I think I was holding him back ). I then turned
South again to-wards Kings Well ( Spring ) then to Robin Hoods grave which is
marked by a cairn, it was at this point that the three other walkers caught
me up. We now walked to-gether again making for Orton where we were to have
tea and cakes. Whilst there I noticed this Hotel, I suppose they must have had
them in the good old days.
The Temperance Hotel at Orton
On departing Orton we headed to-wards Stony Head ( disused quarries ) then down
to Mazon Wath. At this point the other three left me. I then headed for Smardale
Bridge this is part of the old quarry railway. On the way there I damaged a
muscle in the front top of my leg, it was one of the muscles you use for going
down hills, and boy did it hurt. However with the aid of my stick I made it,
it was then a climb out of Smardale to cross Smardale Fell, pretty wild and
open. I eventually reached Kirkby Stephen and by this time my leg was really
playing me up.
I found the Youth Hostel with no trouble at all, it happens to
be a converted church, the pews are still used for seating. I checked in, booked
my meals and then went across the road to a supermarket to buy some painkillers
in order that I could walk the next day. Back at the hostel I showered and had
a rest before supper. At this hostel you had to help clear up and wash up.
Kirkby Stephen Youth Hostel
29 May 1998, Kirkby Stephen to Keld, distance
11.75 miles
At about 9am after having had a good breakfast I was on the road to-wards Keld,
the weather was foul and waterproofs had to be worn. I made good time to Hartley
Quarries, the three other walkers overhauled me, again we walked to-gether.
We were now heading for Nine Standards
Nine Standards
( this is not my picture as when we were there it was mist bound ) but
first we had to cross Hartley Fell, this was a bit of a quagmire, you can well imagine,
rain, peat and a fair amount of wind, not the best of conditions. On reaching Nine
Standards it was shrouded in mist and you could barely see the stones. We decided not to
linger too long so we started to descend to Whitsun Dale, conditions again were pretty
awful as we were following alongside a beck. At Whitsun Dale we found a Grouse Shed open
so decided to take our lunch there. It was nice to be warm and dry for a while.
It was pretty much a straight run down to Keld from there. At
the outskirts of Keld we stopped at a farm for tea and toasted tea cakes, they
really tasted good. Off again to-wards Keld, found my Youth Hostel, was again
well looked after. Did some washing before supper.
At Keld
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